Caring for your Corn Snake

Food

  • Snakes should be fed once per week as juveniles (<3-4 yrs), then every other week as adults

  • Young snakes should be fed pinkie mice

    • As the snake gets larger, they can eat young mice (fuzzies) and eventually adult mice

  • Never feed your snake a prey item that is larger than the widest part of the snake's body

    • For juveniles, this may mean cutting up pinkie mice in to smaller pieces initially

  • We recommend feeding your snake in a designated feeding container

  • We do not recommend feeding live prey

    Water

    • Provide a shallow dish of water that is large enough for your snake to fit is whole body in

      • Your snake should be able to easily climb in and out of this dish

    • Change water and rinse dish daily

    • Soak your snake for 10-15 minutes 2-3 times per week in lukewarm water

      • Critter keepers with meshed lids work well for this

      • Soak daily during sheds

    Housing

    • Corn snakes should be housed in an aquarium that is at least 20 gallons (ideally larger)

    • Line the cage bottom with newspaper, paper towel, or indoor-outdoor carpeting (Repticarpet)

      • Avoid sand, gravel and wood chips as substrate

    • Corn snakes enjoy having a branch to climb

    • Provide a box large enough for the snake to hid in on the warm side of the enclosures

      • This box can be willed with damp sphagnum moss to help with shedding

    Lighting and Temperatures

    • Place a heading pad under half of the enclosure to provide a temperature gradient

      • Ceramic heat lamps can be used to provide extra heat if needed

    • AVOID heated rocks of other heating elements your snake can contact directly

      • These can cause severe burns

    • Temperature should be 75-80 F on the cool side and 85-90 on the warm side

    • Place a thermometer on each end of the tank to monitor temperatures

    • Corn snakes do not require UV lighting

    Medical

    • We recommend yearly physical examination

    • Weigh your snake regularly and recording when they are fed to monitor health trends

    • Pet insurance is available through "Veterinary Pet Insurance"

    • Stuck shed (dysecdysis): Snakes should shed in one complete piece. If your snake is having trouble shedding, increase soaks and misting the enclosure can help. A humid hide box is also helpful. If skin does not fall of on its own or with gentle manipulation, veterinary care should be sought.

    • Respiratory disease: Improper environmental conditions can predispose snakes to respirtory infections. Common problems include too much humidity, insufficient heat and insufficient cleaning.

    • Parasites: Mites are common in many snake species. If you notice mites on your snake, seek veterinary care.

     

    Human Health Risks

    • Minimize fire risks

      • Make sure all lamps and heating elements are strongly secured in place

      • Keep flammable material far from heating elements and lamps

      • Do not over-burden power outlets with multiple lamps

         

    Resources

    • All Creatures Animal Clinic: allcreaturesvet.net, 734-973-1884

    • Melissa Kaplan's Herp Care Collection: www.anapsid.org

    • Nationwide Pet Insurance: www.petinsurance.com